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Professional installers often include a deep layer of crushed gravel under permeable pavers to allow more runoff to soak through into the soil below. Many installations will include multiple layers of gravel, with coarser aggregate at the base and finer aggregate that sits on top of that bottom layer. Above the gravel, you’ll often find coarse sand that helps reduce paver shifting over time. Some permeable paver designs include a water collection system set into the gravel layer to route runoff to a safe area for disposal.

In most cases, you don’t need a permit to repave your driveway, although some exceptions exist. If you’re widening your driveway and plan on widening the apron as well, you’ll usually need a permit from the Department of Transportation in your area. This permit costs between $50 and $300 in most cases. Most municipalities will also require a certified and insured contractor do the work relating to the apron and curb cut. You can contact your building department or ask your paving company if you need a permit. Your driveway professional will usually pull the permit for you.

Box fill refers to the maximum number of conductors that can be contained within a wiring enclosure box, as well as the total volume of the components. Determining the allowable number of conductors in a box requires adding up the number of conductors, clamps, support fittings, devices and equipment, and equipment grounding conductors to make sure you’re within the allowable volume.

If your new pavers look dull or unclean, it is likely due to efflorescence, a chalky, white powder that forms when lime in the pavers gets wet. This condition often resolves on its own, as rain will naturally wash it away within about a year. For faster results, you can use a pressure washer to clean the pavers. Alternatively, consider using cleaning products specifically designed to remove efflorescence or applying sulfuric acid crystals.