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If you wish to break up a cracked or broken paver for removal, you can use a hammer or mallet and a chisel to fragment the paver. As you’re working, be careful not to disturb surrounding pavers; the key is to work slowly and steadily and remove the broken pieces gently. You should also wear a mask and goggles to ensure that no dust gets into your eyes, nose, or mouth as you work.

The best way to stop your pavers from sinking is to ensure you've properly compacted the base layers. Use your paver compactor and work over the base layer several times to create the hardest possible base. If the soil and sand of your base are compact, you’ll experience less shifting and sinking.

Wet cutting is usually the preferred method. It controls dust, which helps protect your lungs and makes for a cleaner working environment. Plus, the water cools the blade, preventing overheating and prolonging its life while providing smoother, more precise cuts. The downside is the mess—water and asphalt sludge can be messy to clean. Dry cutting, though convenient if water isn’t available, creates a lot of dust, which can be harmful. This also increases the risk of blade damage due to overheating. So, if you have the option, wet cutting is the better method for most asphalt jobs.

Asphalt and tarmac are not the same thing. Traditional tarmac, short for tarmacadam, uses tar as a binder to hold crushed stone together. Asphalt uses bitumen—a byproduct of crude oil—to bind aggregate. Though tarmac was once a go-to for roads, asphalt has become the modern standard. And these days, most surfaces referred to as “tarmac” are actually asphalt. So, while the names may overlap, the key distinction lies in the binder—tar for tarmac and bitumen for asphalt.