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You’ll first need to install a base underneath your pavers for extra stability and drainage. Otherwise, the pavers can sink into the ground, and you’ll have to reinstall them. Use a base gravel layer of 4 to 6 inches for walkways and 10 to 12 inches for driveways. Compact your gravel layer every 2 to 4 inches so it’s nice and solid. After you install your gravel base, apply a 1-inch layer of sand on top.

If you're designing a new patio in an area with poor drainage, permeable pavers made from porous materials may help prevent water issues. Most permeable pavers feature a gravel-only aggregate base instead of a concrete base to allow water to flow through instead of getting trapped. While beneficial in some cases, permeable pavers come with higher initial costs and greater load-bearing limitations compared to traditional pavers.

Asphalt and tarmac are not the same thing. Traditional tarmac, short for tarmacadam, uses tar as a binder to hold crushed stone together. Asphalt uses bitumen—a byproduct of crude oil—to bind aggregate. Though tarmac was once a go-to for roads, asphalt has become the modern standard. And these days, most surfaces referred to as “tarmac” are actually asphalt. So, while the names may overlap, the key distinction lies in the binder—tar for tarmac and bitumen for asphalt.

Maintaining a driveway depends on its material. For concrete and asphalt, it's best to clean the surface thoroughly twice a year with a stiff broom and a pressure washer to remove accumulated dirt and debris. Sealing the driveway is crucial to protect it from water damage and freeze-thaw cycles. Before applying a sealant, pressure wash the surface to remove any loose sealant, dirt, or stains, as sealing over them will trap them. Any cracks or expansion joints should be filled with a flexible polyurethane caulk or asphalt sealer. In colder climates, use sand instead of salt for de-icing. Sand helps melt snow and ice without accelerating the freeze-thaw process, which can cause cracks.