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You should stain both sides of your fence to get the full benefits. Fences often fall along property lines, so you may want to save a buck by leaving your neighbor’s side in the dust. If you do that, all you get is a slightly better view. Moisture and UV rays can still sneak in through the side that’s unpainted or worn down and damage your fence. Rot and rust will spread, even if you can’t see it from your side of the lawn.

Aluminum is among the longest-lasting fencing materials, with a lifespan of 30 to 50 years or more. One of the reasons it lasts so long is because aluminum is highly resistant to rust and corrosion. You can help prolong its lifespan by keeping it free of vegetation and cleaning it every few months with a hose and mild soap.

Maintain your wattle fence by inspecting it at least twice per year for loose weaving and degrading branches. Replace any seriously degraded sections, ensure water drains properly around the posts, and trim any sprouting branches if you used green wood. If you notice the weave loosening, you can often tighten it by gently pushing down on the top branches. You can also apply a natural wood preservative every two to three years to extend the fence's lifespan.

You’ll need to bury the garden fence about 1 foot underground. It’s tempting to save on materials by burying the fence just a couple of inches, but if you do so, determined pests will still be able to dig under the fence and access your plants. Burying your garden fence deep into the soil is an important step that allows you to attach a wire barrier to the fencing. 

Burrowing animals (like voles, moles, rabbits, and gophers) can’t dig or chew through this wiring, meaning that you’ll be keeping your prized petunias or your robust veggie garden from being eaten.