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You should avoid cutting off the top of mature cherry trees. This process is called tree topping, and it’s not recommended for cherry trees—or any trees, for that matter. Tree topping removes between one-third to half of the length of the tree trunk, resulting in structurally unsound, fruitless suckers. The only exception is for saplings. Young pie, sour, and tart cherry trees that are over 30 inches tall in the fall or winter before the tree blooms can benefit from heading cuts.

A tree branch should start to form roots in about three months. It can take about a year for a tree branch to develop roots strong enough to go in the ground. For best results, start several branches because, no matter how closely you follow instructions, they won’t all form roots. Compost any that aren’t thriving.

Unlike some fruit trees, such as apple, sweet cherry, or pear that require at least two trees for pollination, most peach trees are self-pollinating. This means you can plant just one tree and still expect it to produce fruit, typically within two to four years. For best results, consult with a local landscaper to choose the right peach tree variety for your specific climate, soil type, and yard layout.

Generally, you’ll want to prune back the trunk by 1 to 2 feet each year to promote bushy growth. Doing so concentrates vegetative buds closer to the bottom of the tree, where you can easily harvest fruit. For side shoots that are a year old, leave at least six leaves. 

Never remove more than 30% of a tree’s foliage during pruning—even if your tree is really overgrown. Removing this much foliage at a time could kill your tree.