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While you can plug most electrical items into a GFCI outlet, some with stationary motors, which experience a small amount of current leakage, such as vent fans or fluorescent lighting, can cause tripping. For this reason, it’s often best to plug them into a standard outlet. This can also be a problem if the circuit is over 100 feet long. Some appliances, such as hair dryers, have built-in GFCI protection, so connecting them to a standard outlet is fine.

The average radon mitigation system uses about 876 kWh of electricity per year, although the exact amount of electricity used will vary depending on the size of the radon fan. Once the system is installed, the annual increase to your energy bill could range from $30 to $300 per year, again depending on the size of the fan.

While not always necessary, wiring your circuit breaker in a certain way can ease both the installation process and use afterward. For starters, you’ll need to install the electrical panel so that the main service knockout aligns with the cable conduit. If they aren’t aligned, you may not have sufficient working space to finish running the wires. Using cable trays, on the other hand, gives you a bit more freedom to and flexibility in where and which direction you install the wires. At the end of the day, the power flow will be the same whether the cords run up or down.

Most electric water heaters have a built-in shut-off switch, so you can simply turn that to the OFF position. Some water heaters have the switch inside a panel, so you might need to unscrew the panel, remove it, move aside the insulation, and then shut the water heater off. To make sure it’s off, you can also locate the switch for your water heater in your electrical panel and shut the power off there. Most electrical panels have dedicated switches for the water heater, so you can shut off the power without affecting the rest of your home.