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It is safe to flush the toilet even if the pipes are frozen, and this may even help clear out the pipes. But if the supply line is frozen, the toilet won’t refill itself until it’s thawed out. You can still flush by pouring water into the tank to refill it.

A standard toilet flange should fit snugly into the outflow pipe and sit level with the subfloor. Installing a new one without first removing the old one will make it impossible to form a seal and keep the toilet bowl bolted securely in place. 

However, if you’re dealing with leakage or wobbling because you’ve installed a new type of bathroom tile (making the floor taller), you may be able to avoid fully replacing the flange by opting for a toilet flange extender. Extenders typically come in kits for easy DIY installation, fit over the existing flange, and bring the drain connection higher.

Toilets typically connect to your main vent stack, a vertical pipe that runs through all finished levels of your home and exits through the roof. It’s located behind the walls, but if you have an unfinished basement or a utility closet, you may find a portion of it running the vertical length of the space. Some basement toilets use an air admittance valve instead, which is a small vent located in the wall directly behind the toilet that extends upward a few feet from the drain.

Some older homes have toilets in the basement to combat sewage backups. This type of toilet, also known as a Pittsburgh potty, acted as a safety valve over the incoming sewer line. If a line backed up, it would back up into the toilet because it was the lowest fixture in the home, keeping it out of sight and away from the finished areas of the house.

Basement toilets were also used by workers with messy jobs, like those who worked in coal mines or steel mills. This way, they could clean up and avoid tracking dirt through their home.