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Yes, you should screw your flange to the subfloor, including cement. The best way to get this done is to predrill holes into the concrete using a hammer drill and a ¼-inch concrete bit. Be careful when you’re ready to bolt your flange down, as you can accidentally crack it. You can avoid this issue by not installing the screws too deep. Or, you can opt for a flange with a stainless steel ring so you don’t have to worry about cracking the plastic.

Even though they’re modern-looking, easier to clean, can be hung at any height, and help save space compared to traditional toilets, wall-hung toilets have some downsides. They’re more expensive than standard toilets, sometimes by a few hundred dollars. They’re also difficult to install and may require major plumbing work to reroute the drain if the previous toilet was a floor-mount model.

This tight fit can make repairs more difficult. You’ll also have to consider where you can hang them and weight limit restrictions, so they may not be the best fit for every home.

Some older homes have toilets in the basement to combat sewage backups. This type of toilet, also known as a Pittsburgh potty, acted as a safety valve over the incoming sewer line. If a line backed up, it would back up into the toilet because it was the lowest fixture in the home, keeping it out of sight and away from the finished areas of the house.

Basement toilets were also used by workers with messy jobs, like those who worked in coal mines or steel mills. This way, they could clean up and avoid tracking dirt through their home.

While the toilet bowl and toilet tank require haul away to your curb, landfill, or recycling center, you can dispose of your old, used toilet seat in your regular garbage collection. If your toilet seat is plastic or duroplast, you can even recycle it instead at a local recycling facility.