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Toilets typically connect to your main vent stack, a vertical pipe that runs through all finished levels of your home and exits through the roof. It’s located behind the walls, but if you have an unfinished basement or a utility closet, you may find a portion of it running the vertical length of the space. Some basement toilets use an air admittance valve instead, which is a small vent located in the wall directly behind the toilet that extends upward a few feet from the drain.

Ensuring your toilet will fit starts with measuring the rough-in, but there are a few other factors to consider. The toilet tank's height and the toilet's depth should fit comfortably within the bathroom’s current setup. When considering depth, look at the walking space around the toilet to ensure it fits in the bathroom.

Basement toilets don’t always need a pump. However, it is the most common setup because plumbing systems use gravity to move waste away from the home. Basement toilets often sit below the home’s main sewage system, and installing a sewage ejector pump pushes the wastewater and sewage up to the main sewer line. Alternatively, you can use an upflush or macerator toilet that breaks down the waste and pushes it straight to the main sewer line rather than via a sewer line from the bathroom.

Yes, frozen pipes can prevent a toilet from working correctly. If the pipes are frozen, water cannot flow, which means your toilet tank won't be able to refill after a flush. This will prevent the toilet from flushing again. Depending on which lines are frozen, the ice can also block the drain pipe, preventing water from flushing away.

As a temporary workaround, you can manually add water to the tank for each flush. To clear a frozen drain pipe, you can try filling the toilet bowl or tank with warm water and flushing to help thaw the ice. However, the best long-term solution is to unfreeze the pipes to get your toilet back in working order.