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They’ll use more electricity than the average upright vacuum, but not remarkably more. Most power units plug into a standard 120-volt outlet and don’t have significant power demands. You shouldn’t notice an increase in electricity bills. If you have any specific questions about energy costs, ask your installer as you examine purchase decisions. Larger power units will need more electricity for their suction levels.

Blower door tests are measured in a few different ways, but the most popular are air changes per hour (ACH) and cubic feet of air (CFM) moving through the house per hour. A good ACH score is less than 2ACH, but 1ACH is better. This means the house experiences a total air change within 60 minutes (for 1ACH). For 2ACH, there’s a complete change every 30 minutes, and so on. CFM scores are similar in that a lower score means less air change, and therefore less leakage.

Wood windows fall in the middle of the window frame materials when it comes to energy efficiency. They’re more insulating than aluminum and vinyl, but they aren’t as efficient as fiberglass or composite frames. If you love the look and lifespan of wood windows and want to maximize efficiency, you can upgrade to double-pane or triple-pane glass and consider window tinting and low-emissivity (low-E) coatings to minimize heat transfer.

Window AC units use a fair amount of electricity, but significantly less than central AC systems. Because they are more energy-efficient for cooling individual rooms or small spaces, their usage is comparatively low. On average, a window AC unit consumes between 500 and 1,400 watts, while a central AC system uses over 3,500 watts—meaning a window unit uses about one-third of the energy. This typically translates to a monthly running cost of $15 to $40, although this can vary depending on external factors.