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Energy Efficiency Auditing questions, answered by experts

Dehumidifiers typically use 300 to 700 watts of electricity per hour, whereas portable dehumidifiers use about 40 watts per hour. The exact amount of electricity your dehumidifier will generate depends on its capacity and energy efficiency. Generally, higher-capacity dehumidifiers generate more electricity than lower-capacity units, but they also usually have better energy efficiency over the long run.

There are several signs that your house might have poor ventilation, including lingering odors, condensation on your windows, or mold and mildew. Your home may also feel stale and stuffy, or you might have trouble maintaining a comfortable temperature in your home. On top of that, you might develop allergy symptoms, such as sneezing, coughing, or headaches.

Typically, a local home energy auditor is responsible for performing energy audits. A home energy auditor will conduct one of three energy audits designed by the American Society of Heating, Refrigerating, and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) to determine the energy efficiency of your home. The auditor often provides analysis that can help guide changes and improvements to your home for better energy efficiency, giving recommendations as necessary.

A home energy audit costs about $420 on average, with prices ranging from $100 to $2,250 or more. The final cost depends on factors like your home's size, location, the thoroughness of the audit, and the specific tests performed. A basic Level 1 walk-through inspection typically costs between $150 and $200, while a comprehensive Level 3 audit with detailed testing and a report costs around $900. Homeowners may be able to use the 2022 Inflation Reduction Act’s Energy Efficient Home Improvement credit to cover up to $150 of the audit cost.

Costs for common individual tests include:

  • Blower door test: $350

  • Duct testing: $100

  • HERS test: $375

  • HERS certification: $200

  • Infrared imaging: $200

To determine the right size generator for your house, you should calculate the total wattage of the appliances and devices you want to power during an outage. List all essential items, note their start-up wattages, and add them together.

Here are some typical wattage requirements for common appliances:

  • Refrigerator: 600 watts

  • Large dehumidifier: 700 watts

  • Large window air conditioner: 1,400 watts

  • Water heater: 3,000 to 4,500 watts

  • Electric furnace: 5,000 to 25,000 watts

A 7,500-watt generator might be sufficient for essentials like a refrigerator, freezer, well pump, and lighting circuits. However, for high-demand items like a water heater or furnace, a whole-home generator is a better choice. A portable generator may be enough if you only need to power a few critical items.

While home square footage can offer a rough estimate, it is not always a reliable indicator. For reference, here are some typical generator sizes based on square footage:

  • 1,000 sq ft: 6–9 kW

  • 1,500 sq ft: 7–10 kW

  • 2,000 sq ft: 10–14 kW

  • 2,500 sq ft: 12–16 kW

  • 3,000 sq ft: 16–20 kW+

For the most accurate sizing, consult a professional who can calculate your home's peak and average power consumption and recommend the optimal generator.

The Edgeley, ND homeowners’ guide to energy efficiency auditing services

From average costs to expert advice, get all the answers you need to get your job done.