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Driveway aprons typically range between four and seven inches thick, though your town's building codes will likely have specific requirements. Additionally, you may need to add a layer of permeable aggregate in the excavation below your paved apron to ensure proper stormwater drainage.

It’s best to weigh the pros and cons of each material and decide on your priorities for your driveway. Gravel won’t be an appropriate choice if your driveway experiences heavy traffic. You’ll find that you need to level and top it off regularly, which could make the material a much more expensive option.

Even with regular maintenance, most driveways don’t last much longer than 30 years. Alligator cracking is a clear warning sign that your driveway’s foundation is failing, and cracks that are deep and wide can let water in, causing more damage. Standing water is another red flag. If your driveway doesn’t drain properly, it’s going to degrade slowly. Finally, if you’re seeing dips or uneven patches, that’s a sign the base layer or soil is shifting. If these issues pop up, it’s time to replace your driveway.

New asphalt goes through two stages: drying and curing. Drying typically takes 24 to 72 hours, after which the surface is solid enough for light use like walking or careful driving. While you may be able to park on it after 72 hours, the surface is still soft and should be treated gently. Full curing is a much longer process, taking anywhere from 30 days to a full year for the asphalt to reach maximum strength. During this extended curing period, the asphalt is susceptible to damage from heavy vehicles, sharp objects, and high temperatures. Factors like weather, the specific asphalt mix, and application thickness all influence drying and curing times. For the most accurate timeline and to ensure the longevity of your new asphalt, it is always best to consult with your installation contractor for their specific recommendations.