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In most cases, you should not use a pruning seal on trees after trimming. Applying a sealant can interfere with the tree's natural healing process, and it does not guarantee protection from pathogens. Instead of sealing the cut, the best practice is to support the tree's natural recovery by providing it with plenty of water and a dormant-style fertilizer. However, there are exceptions. Pruning seals may be recommended for very vulnerable species, like elm trees, in areas where dangerous diseases such as Dutch elm disease are prevalent. In these specific situations, the protection offered by a sealant can outweigh its downsides. For advice tailored to your situation, especially after cutting large branches, it is best to consult a local tree trimming professional.

Rock salt or Epsom salt can damage and kill tree roots over several weeks and can even assist in removing the tree's stump. However, you need to drill holes or cut into the stump and surface tree roots to inject them properly with the salt. Repeat the process every two weeks until the roots visibly rot away.

Pruning trees during the summer can be a bad idea because the new growth will take place during the hottest months of the year, which can stress your tree out. Similarly, pruning during the early fall can be a bad idea, too, because you’d be stimulating new growth when most trees are aiming to go dormant. 

Pruning recommendations will vary by the type of tree, but generally, waiting until winter to prune your trees is a good idea.

If executed correctly your tree should survive after being transplanted to a new spot. However, effective transplanting requires six months, careful root pruning, safe transport to the new location, and replanting in prime soil conditions. You’ll also need an appropriately sized root ball for a complete tree transplant. A good rule of thumb is that, for every inch in diameter, your tree’s root ball needs to be around 11 inches. So a tree with a diameter of six inches needs a root ball of approximately 66 inches.