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It takes anywhere from three to seven years for a stump to decompose on its own. This timeframe can depend on the kind of tree and your climate. The lower to the ground the stump is, the faster it rots. If you kill a tree stump with salt, boiling water, herbicide, light deprivation, or burning, the tree stump decomposes faster. 

In most cases, you should not use a pruning seal on trees after trimming. Applying a sealant can interfere with the tree's natural healing process, and it does not guarantee protection from pathogens. Instead of sealing the cut, the best practice is to support the tree's natural recovery by providing it with plenty of water and a dormant-style fertilizer. However, there are exceptions. Pruning seals may be recommended for very vulnerable species, like elm trees, in areas where dangerous diseases such as Dutch elm disease are prevalent. In these specific situations, the protection offered by a sealant can outweigh its downsides. For advice tailored to your situation, especially after cutting large branches, it is best to consult a local tree trimming professional.

No, homeowners insurance typically does not cover the cost of removing a dead, sick, or rotting tree that is still standing. Insurance is designed to protect against sudden and unexpected accidents, whereas a tree dying or rotting over time is considered a maintenance issue. Coverage usually only applies after a tree has fallen and caused damage to your property.

Yes, forestry mulching can grind stumps, but the level of effectiveness depends on the equipment used. Drum mulchers can break down smaller stumps, but larger or deep-rooted stumps may require a dedicated stump grinder for complete removal. If full stump removal is necessary for replanting or construction, additional excavation may be needed. Always check with your forestry mulching provider to confirm whether they offer stump grinding and if their equipment is suitable for your specific needs.