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Yes, including recycled denim and cellulose from natural fibers.

You do not always need to remove old insulation before adding new. If the existing insulation is in good condition—not wet, physically damaged, moldy, or infested with pests—you can add new insulation directly on top of it for a compounding effect. You can also mix different types, such as adding blown-in insulation around existing fiberglass batts.

However, removal is recommended if the old insulation is compromised by water damage or pests. You should also remove it if you plan to install a different type of insulation, like switching from roll or batt insulation to spray foam. If the existing insulation is very old or damaged, you will likely get more benefit from removing it and starting fresh.

Unfaced wall insulation is easier to cut and install, making it the better choice for a DIY project. It’s also more affordable. But if it’s unfaced, you’ll likely need to add a vapor barrier to reach your desired R-value and efficiency, as it doesn’t offer any moisture barrier.

Faced insulation uses paper or foil to create a built-in barrier and doesn’t require an extra step. It’s also more fire-resistant and safe. But it’s quite a bit more expensive and a little bit harder to work with as a DIYer.

Yes, insulating ductwork in a crawl space is a worthwhile investment, especially if you live in a colder climate or run your air conditioning for most of the year. Uninsulated ducts can lose up to 30% of their heating and cooling efficiency, which can significantly impact your electricity bill. The project is a relatively small investment and typically only takes a few hours. It's a particularly simple add-on if you are already hiring someone to insulate the entire crawl space. An added benefit is that insulated ducts put off less hot or cold air, making them less attractive to pests.