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R-30 insulation is better for higher thermal resistance, but whether it’s "better" depends on the application. R-30 is much thicker and suited for areas like attics or floors in cold climates, where more insulation is required. R-13, on the other hand, is thinner and works well for 2x4 walls or milder climates where less insulation is sufficient. Choosing between R-13 and R-30 depends on the area being insulated and the climate. For example, R-30 provides more insulation but may not fit everywhere in your home.

If you need to insulate behind finished walls, the best option will likely be to have an insulation professional install blown-in insulation. The installation requires small holes cut in your wall, after which the installer can blow loose-fill insulation into the void. After the installation, you’ll have minor drywall patching, which shouldn’t cost more than $100. Compared to ripping down the existing drywall, using a different type of insulation, and replacing and finishing the drywall, this should save you hundreds or even thousands, depending on the size of the room you’re insulating.

If you feel your energy bills are too high or your HVAC system is working harder than necessary to maintain the correct temperature in your home, you may have an under-insulated home. If you’re unsure, consider having your system’s efficiency assessed by a local independent energy auditor.

We do not recommend fiberglass insulation for soundproofing purposes, especially if you are working on a room that’s part of your living space. Fiberglass insulation is dangerous, and the installation process is hazardous. It is also harmful to the environment. When there are so many newer, healthier non-fiberglass alternatives in the market, the lower cost of fiberglass insulation simply doesn’t justify the harm and danger it poses.