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Stay inside or well away until the storm passes. Don’t go outside to inspect the tree until the weather clears, especially if the tree is on a hill or isolated in a field. Lightning often strikes the same easily-accessed places multiple times, and you could be a new target. If a lightning strike causes a noticeable fire, alert emergency services. When the storm is over, take a closer look to gauge the damage done.

On grafted trees, tree suckers will grow from the root stock, not the branches grafted onto it. Therefore, the leaves and characteristics of the suckers aren’t the same as the tree because they are different varieties. Root stock has more hardiness, strength, or drought tolerance than its grafted limbs, so if the suckers are from fruit or flowers, it might be different than the main part of your tree.

Generally, you should prune around 20% of an apple tree’s growth—and never more than 30%. This means that if you have a severely overgrown tree, it can take a few seasons to prune it back enough to produce the healthiest fruit. 

If you’re dealing with a newly planted or juvenile tree, hold off on pruning beyond the initial shaping. Wait at least a couple of seasons into fruit production since pruning can increase the number of water sprouts and unproductive foliage.

Late winter is ideal, but if you’re pruning apple trees in the spring, prune them as early as possible in the season. You want to ensure your tree is just creeping out of dormancy and hasn’t started pushing out new growth. If you prune your tree too late into spring, you generally won’t see results until the following year.

That said, there’s no pruning season for unhealthy growth. Remove dead, dying, or diseased branches as soon as you notice them, regardless of the time of year.