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Fence Painting FAQs, answered by experts

Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

100% acrylic latex lasts the longest for most siding. Premium 100% acrylic products carry lifetime warranties against peeling, blistering, and fading. Match the grade to your surface and climate for the best lifespan.

On most untreated wood fences, there is no need to sand before treating. You typically only need to sand if there’s an old coat of paint or stain on your fence. If you do need to sand off a previous paint or protective coating (like an old stain or sealant), use medium-grit sandpaper.

Yes, you can paint galvanized chain link, but the process is a bit more difficult as it requires additional prep work. Before applying the primer and paint, you must remove the original coating from the metal, which can be time-consuming. If the original coating is not removed, the primer and paint will not bond properly and cause peeling over time.

The general consensus is that two coats of stain are required and since the cedar is siding, a third coat of sealant is always a good idea. This helps protect the wood and stain, so you won’t need to resand and restain for at least a decade. Each stain after the first will darken the wood, so be aware of that when choosing a colored stain.

The Port Huron, MI homeowners’ guide to fence painting services

From average costs to expert advice, get all the answers you need to get your job done.