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Furring strips, thin strips of wood or metal, are not always required for ceiling drywall installation. If the ceiling surface is even and in good condition, drywall can be directly attached to the ceiling joists using screws. However, furring strips become essential when dealing with irregular surfaces or when additional insulation or soundproofing is needed. They create a level substrate for attaching the drywall. Ultimately, the decision to use furring strips depends on the condition of the existing ceiling and the specific requirements of the project.

Whether you apply the drywall mesh before or after drywall mud depends on the type of patch it is. For self-adhesive patches, you’ll put the patch down first and then coat it with mud. Mesh patches that are not self-adhesive will require you to put mud down first and then press the mesh into it, followed by additional coats of mud.

Bump-out additions can add some space to a closet without requiring any significant structural work. This entails pushing back the existing rear or side of the closet, simply moving the wall into either an adjacent room or unused space. For ground-floor closets, this could even be extended to the exterior of the home, but that has its own complications. Bump-outs are a good discussion to have with your contractor if you’re just looking to increase the space a little—not renovate the entire closet space.

A 50-pound mirror can be hung on drywall, but only if it has the support of strong hardware. Ideally, you can find the studs behind the drywall and attach the mirror to them; this will give your mirror better stability. Otherwise, confirm that you are using anchors appropriate to the weight of the mirrors. Another technique is to use French cleats—two pieces of wood that fit together, with one piece attached to the wall and the other to the mirror. This allows the weight to be distributed over a wider area.