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All plaster walls will crack over time due to normal house settling and expansion and contraction from temperature and moisture changes. Small, thin hairline cracks are generally not serious and are mostly a cosmetic issue. However, larger or more significant cracks can indicate structural problems.

Here's how to tell the difference:

• Cosmetic Cracks: Cracks that are 0.5 cm (0.2 inches) or thinner are typically cosmetic.

• Structural Cracks: Cracks wider than 0.5 cm, excessive or deep cracks, multiple cracks in the same area, or cracks that span around corners can signify a structural or foundation issue. Cracks along the joints where walls meet the ceiling also warrant attention.

For cracks wider than 0.5 cm, structural repair is needed. If a crack is 2.5 cm (1 inch) or wider, or if you notice any signs of a structural problem, it is best to contact a plaster repair professional to assess the damage.

Plastering lasts for around 15 to 20 years without needing repairs or maintenance in most cases, and with proper upkeep, plastering can last a lifetime—sometimes more than 100 years. Plaster repair costs between $1 and $3 per square foot, and you may need these services once every 15 to 20 years or so unless you have a harsh climate where humidity changes are a constant issue. You can also opt to skim-coat plaster for between $0.90 and $1.30 per square foot, which may serve you better in the long run.

Which style of corner bead you choose—whether metal or paper-faced—depends on your preference and if you’re comfortable using metal-cutting tools and a hammer. Metal bead offers superior strength and durability but its installation is slightly more involved. We’d say for most cases, it’s better to use metal bead but if you’re not comfortable working with metal, paper-faced bead will work just fine. 

While every home has its own unique needs, ceiling drywall installation typically follows a staggered or stepped pattern to enhance structural integrity and reduce the visibility of seams. Starting from one corner, sheets are placed perpendicular to the ceiling joists, with the ends of adjacent sheets meeting along the center of the joist. The next row begins with a half sheet, ensuring joints don't align vertically. This alternating pattern, combined with proper taping and mudding, creates a seamless appearance and strengthens the ceiling structure, minimizing the risk of cracks over time.