When shopping for a multimeter to handle this job, make sure you purchase one that is able to test for capacitance. While most multimeters offer this function, some do not. You shouldn’t have to spend a lot of money to find the right multimeter. There are models that can perform this test that cost as little as $10.

If half of a string of Christmas lights is out, it is likely because of a single burned-out, loose, or broken bulb within that section. Long strands of lights often contain more than one circuit, so when one bulb fails, it can cause the entire circuit (or half the strand) to go dark. To fix this, inspect the unlit section and test each bulb to ensure it is tight and functioning properly. Replacing the faulty bulb or repairing a damaged shunt will typically solve the problem.

Several signs can indicate a light switch is bad. If the switch feels loose, slides down after you flip it, or requires multiple flicks to turn the light on, it may be failing. Other common indicators include flickering lights or a general failure to turn the light on or off. Pay attention to any unusual sounds, such as crackling, buzzing, or popping when you operate the switch. More serious signs, which can present a fire or shock hazard, include the switch feeling excessively warm or hot, sparking, smoking, or emitting a burning smell. If you notice any of these dangerous signs, stop using the switch immediately and call an electrician.

The Occupational Safety and Home Administration (OSHA) requires an electrical panel to have a minimum of three feet (36 inches) of room from the front of the panel to the closest obstacle. In this case, the word obstacle refers to nearly everything, including walls, machines, and other fixed objects. Additionally, panels require at least 6½ feet of headroom in the area directly in front of the fixture. These requirements help ensure safe use of the panel and allow electricians plenty of room to work.