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You can use pressure-treated wood for a horizontal fence, but you’ll need to purchase a thicker and higher-quality variety to ensure it doesn’t sag or warp after you install it. Use #2 pine grade lumber and boards and thicker dimensional lumber, such as a two-by-six. You’ll also need to use stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized fasteners, as the chemicals in the treated lumber will cause regular galvanized fasteners to rust. 

You’ll need to bury the garden fence about 1 foot underground. It’s tempting to save on materials by burying the fence just a couple of inches, but if you do so, determined pests will still be able to dig under the fence and access your plants. Burying your garden fence deep into the soil is an important step that allows you to attach a wire barrier to the fencing. 

Burrowing animals (like voles, moles, rabbits, and gophers) can’t dig or chew through this wiring, meaning that you’ll be keeping your prized petunias or your robust veggie garden from being eaten.

Making a homemade pallet fence involves marking out the fence line and leveling the ground along it. Then, install metal or wooden fence posts that you slide the pallets on top of (two posts per pallet). Fasten them together with 2x4 wood boards that act as an extra layer, keeping the pallet fence secure.

Privacy fences in residential neighborhoods tend to stand between 6 and 8 feet tall, but local building code usually dictates the maximum height. Livestock fences that border large land plots range from 3 to 6 feet. Shorter, decorative fences, which are common in front yards, are around 3 feet tall, on average. Fence height also tends to vary by material, with wood fences usually sitting at 6 feet tall, and chain-link and wrought iron fences tending to sit at half that.