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If your home was built before the 1940s and was not remodeled in the past 50 or so years, you probably have plaster walls. Aside from assuming, there are some practical ways to tell if you have plaster walls, including the following: If you knock on the wall and it feels solid, not hollow, if you can’t insert a thumbtack easily, if there are cracks that look like spiderwebs, or if your home has curved, arched, or swirled walls, doorways, or window openings.

If you have an unfinished basement or attic, you could examine the backs of any finished walls to check, too.

You can paint over drywall mud about 24 hours after application, but the exact timing depends on factors like humidity, temperature, and the thickness of the mud. For the best results, ensure the mud is completely dry to the touch and has changed from a darker gray to a lighter, chalky white. Don’t forget to sand and prime the drywall surface before you paint to create a smooth, even finish.

Drywall can be toxic to the environment and to humans in some cases. As drywall breaks down in a landfill and comes in contact with other organic chemicals, it can create hydrogen sulfide gas or leach into the groundwater. Additionally, the CDC recommends methods for controlling the inhalation of drywall dust when handled. While the common ingredients of drywall—gypsum, silica, and mica—are naturally occurring, they can cause irritation in some humans.

The best way to make long, straight cuts is to use a utility knife and a T-square to score the sheet, snap along the score, and then finish the cut by cutting through the paper on the opposite side with the utility knife. If you’re making small cuts, curved cuts, or cutouts for electrical boxes or light fixtures, you can use a manual jab saw to keep costs down, but an electric spiral saw or oscillating multi-tool will get the cleanest, fastest cuts possible.