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Gravel is one of the few driveway materials that can handle rain the second it’s installed. Unlike asphalt, which needs days to set, or concrete, which requires weeks to cure, gravel is ready as soon as it’s compacted. It’s naturally permeable, allowing water to drain straight through—with no risk of pooling or surface damage. Gravel driveways are one of the most affordable, at $1 to $3 per square foot, and can also last upward of 100 years.

New asphalt goes through two stages: drying and curing. Drying typically takes 24 to 72 hours, after which the surface is solid enough for light use like walking or careful driving. While you may be able to park on it after 72 hours, the surface is still soft and should be treated gently. Full curing is a much longer process, taking anywhere from 30 days to a full year for the asphalt to reach maximum strength. During this extended curing period, the asphalt is susceptible to damage from heavy vehicles, sharp objects, and high temperatures. Factors like weather, the specific asphalt mix, and application thickness all influence drying and curing times. For the most accurate timeline and to ensure the longevity of your new asphalt, it is always best to consult with your installation contractor for their specific recommendations.

The average cost to repair an asphalt driveway is around $2,459 to $2,500. However, prices can range from $100 for minor DIY crack filling to over $4,000 for more extensive professional work. Costs are often calculated per foot, with minor repairs costing $1 to $3 per linear foot and heavier damage like potholes, sinking, or crumbling costing $2 to $5 per linear foot. Patching smaller potholes can cost around $2 to $3 per square foot. The final price depends on the severity and extent of the damage, driveway design, local contractor rates, and whether sealing is included. For major repairs, it is recommended to hire a professional, and you may get a better deal by bundling repair and sealing services together.

Driveway aprons typically range between four and seven inches thick, though your town's building codes will likely have specific requirements. Additionally, you may need to add a layer of permeable aggregate in the excavation below your paved apron to ensure proper stormwater drainage.