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The most obvious disadvantage of permeable paving is that the cost is typically higher compared to non-permeable concrete, pavers, or asphalt methods. Also, the porous material can get clogged with dirt and debris, requiring cleaning and power washing more frequently than standard paving materials and methods. Although permeable paving is not ideal for highways, airports, and other surfaces supporting heavy traffic and machinery, it is suitable for regular residential driveways.

After removing existing moss, consider using paver blocking sand to fill the joints. This specialty material hardens once placed and serves as an effective barrier against moss and weeds. From there on, regularly clean your pavers and try to keep them dry. You can also seal your paver as a semi-permanent solution — just make sure you reseal every 3 to 5 years.

There’s no single best asphalt grade—it all comes down to where and how it’s used. Highways and heavy-traffic roads need something tough, like polymer-modified asphalt (PMA) or Stone Matrix Asphalt (SMA). Local roads and parking lots rely on the Performance Graded (PG) system, chosen based on climate. A PG 64-28 mix, for example, handles a broad temperature range while simpler, more cost-effective mixes are typically enough for residential driveways. The best grade of asphalt depends on traffic, weather, and your budget, which is why a professional’s input is always a smart move before making a decision.

Driveways should be sloped with a minimum 2% slope—anything lower will cause precipitation and runoff to collect. A 2% slope is the equivalent of a 2-foot rise over 100 feet. One quick way to check the integrity of your driveway’s slope: no more than four inches of water should collect on the surface longer than 15 minutes after rain.