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Start by finding the septic tank, marked by an access lid near your home. From there, the drain field extends outward in a series of trenches. Look for greener, lusher grass, as drain fields promote plant growth due to moisture and fertilizer. You can also check property records, use a soil probe to detect damp soil, or hire a septic professional with ground-penetrating radar equipment to map the drain field’s location.

You can check your own septic tank, but take precautions. Locate the access lid, usually buried a few inches underground, and remove it carefully. Look for the sludge and scum levels, and if they’re high, that means pumping may be necessary. Check for odors, slow drains, or pooling water around the drain field, which could indicate issues. Never enter the tank, as toxic gases can be fatal. All of that being said, a professional inspection is safer and more thorough.

Most well pump pressure switches have a factory setting of 30 to 50 PSI. There’s some flexibility with this if you’d like a lower or higher water pressure, but remember that it should sit 2 to 3 PSI above your well tank’s general pressure setting.

The inside of your pressure switch cover will usually indicate minimum and maximum settings—going below and above the numbers might damage your well pump.

You only need to pump the septic tank. The leach field allows the liquid and waste to naturally seep into the ground, so there’s no need to pump the leach field. You should call a local septic tank pumping service to remove the materials from the tank every three to five years. Without pumping the septic tank occasionally, solids could flow into the leach field pipes and clog them.