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It depends. Smaller, younger trees take longer to mature, but they're more resilient, their roots don't get as damaged during transplanting, and they recover faster. Plus, they're much more affordable to plant, and it's possible to DIY the planting. 

On the other hand, mature trees produce fruit faster and provide more shade and privacy immediately. Ideally, a small or medium tree is the better choice if you can wait a few years for it to mature. But if you need immediate maturity, a larger tree is the only option.

You should avoid cutting off the top of mature cherry trees. This process is called tree topping, and it’s not recommended for cherry trees—or any trees, for that matter. Tree topping removes between one-third to half of the length of the tree trunk, resulting in structurally unsound, fruitless suckers. The only exception is for saplings. Young pie, sour, and tart cherry trees that are over 30 inches tall in the fall or winter before the tree blooms can benefit from heading cuts.

Maple trees start the growing season by developing small groups of red flowers where the tree's fruit, the samaras, will appear in the coming weeks. Later in spring, the samaras, which many call whirlybirds or similar names, develop into single-winged seed carriers that spin when falling or drifting in the wind. 

While there is a lot of debate about whether boiling water is strong enough to kill tree roots, it is not best to remove the roots from large, old trees. You may be able to weaken young roots enough to remove them manually, but boiling water will likely not do the trick for large root systems.