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Some trees, such as silver maples, birches, sycamores, and scotch pines, shed their bark naturally. If your tree is not one that does this, it might have fallen prey to pests, fungi, or diseases. It could also simply be suffering from an extreme weather change, such as a snowstorm or heat wave. If you’re still stumped, consulting with a pro can help you diagnose your tree’s specific problem.

Generally, avoid trimming trees in the summer (with the exception of pruning fruit trees as needed). Trees use a lot of energy in the summer, most of which is relegated to new growth. If you chop it too early, you could stunt the next season's growth. Again, when in doubt, do some research based on the specific tree type.

Deciduous shade trees (the type of trees whose leaves fall off in autumn) need to be pruned in late winter—between February and March. That’s because it’s easier to find and remove sick or dead branches when no leaves are present. And wounds close and heal faster in colder temperatures so pruning them at this time also makes them less prone to infection.

In most cases, you should not use a pruning seal on trees after trimming. Applying a sealant can interfere with the tree's natural healing process, and it does not guarantee protection from pathogens. Instead of sealing the cut, the best practice is to support the tree's natural recovery by providing it with plenty of water and a dormant-style fertilizer. However, there are exceptions. Pruning seals may be recommended for very vulnerable species, like elm trees, in areas where dangerous diseases such as Dutch elm disease are prevalent. In these specific situations, the protection offered by a sealant can outweigh its downsides. For advice tailored to your situation, especially after cutting large branches, it is best to consult a local tree trimming professional.