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Yes, but you’ll have to use some other type of tool to avoid damaging the tile and possibly injuring yourself. Some alternatives to tile cutters include a glass cutter, angle grinder, and wet saw. Depending on the tile material, you might simply be able to measure and score it with something sharp, like a carbide-tipped pencil, and break it off. Be sure to sand the edge for a smooth installation.

Yes, but you should only put tile directly on drywall in smaller areas that don’t experience excess moisture. For example, a small kitchen tile backsplash could work, but installing tile directly on the drywall in a bathroom or other chronically damp area is not a good idea. Either way, a cement backer board is a far more reliable solution, as drywall is susceptible to moisture and can warp or cause your tiles to crack.

Figure out how much tile you need by measuring the backsplash area. Measure the height and length in feet and multiply to get the square footage. Don’t make adjustments for outlets or small cutouts but subtract the square footage for windows or other large obstructions from the total. To account for waste, get 10% more than your calculation.

Mortar and thinset both serve the same purpose—tile adhesion—but have different compositions and use-cases. Thinset is heatproof and presents a wide range of possibilities due to the added polymers. Mortar is typically used for bonding stones and brick. Thinset is rarely used outside, while mortar is rarely used inside.