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No, when done correctly, removing the tile shouldn’t damage the subfloor. However, if there was pre-existing damage to the subfloor from standard use or lack of maintenance, the subfloor may need repairs. For example, if the contractors notice mold growth on the subfloor or an uneven surface, you may need more extensive services before installing new tile.

If you DIY tile removal, remove the tiles one step at a time, individually removing the tile, grout, and mortar to prevent unnecessarily damaging the subfloor. Depending on the age of your home, consider having a professional inspect the subfloor to ensure it’s in good enough condition to lay new tile.

Yes, but you should only put tile directly on drywall in smaller areas that don’t experience excess moisture. For example, a small kitchen tile backsplash could work, but installing tile directly on the drywall in a bathroom or other chronically damp area is not a good idea. Either way, a cement backer board is a far more reliable solution, as drywall is susceptible to moisture and can warp or cause your tiles to crack.

For glass tile, you want to use unsanded grout. Sanded grout is a stronger and grittier cement grout that is great for installing tiles with wider gaps and into joints. However, it is susceptible to scratching glass tile and is more difficult to use in thinner gaps. Unsanded grout, while more expensive, is easier to fit between thin gaps and is less harsh on delicate materials, like glass tile.

Thinset mortar is the best adhesive for ceramic tiles on concrete. It is easy to work with and has a slower dry time than mastic or epoxy mortars. This longer dry time gives the installer more time to adjust tiles, which is especially useful for DIYers who may not have tile installation experience. It can also be built up to help level any depressions or gaps in the concrete subfloor.