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A sump pump can be plugged into a regular, 110-volt outlet with three-prong openings, but it must have GFCI protections per the NEC, meaning you’ll need a GFCI outlet and circuit. Sump pumps require two outlet openings, one for the plug to the motor and one for the float switch.

A sewage ejector pump is necessary if you have any plumbing fixtures, such as a bathroom, laundry room, or sink, located below the level of your home's main sewer line. Standard plumbing relies on gravity to drain wastewater and solid waste into the municipal sewer system or a septic tank. For fixtures below this level, like those in a basement, gravity cannot move the waste upward. The ejector pump provides the force needed to pump the sewage up to the main line. Without one, wastewater from below-ground fixtures would back up, potentially causing a sewage overflow and flooding. If all of your plumbing is on the main floor or higher, gravity is sufficient and an ejector pump is not needed.

The difference between an ejector pump and a sump pump lies in their purpose and design—an ejector pump functions to remove liquid gray water and soft solid sewage waste from your home. If you have a laundry room or bathroom in your basement, an ejector pump for your sewage tank prevents sewage from backing up in your washing machine or bathroom’s drains.

A sump pump is designed to remove excess groundwater that may enter your home, either due to flooding or periods of heavy rain.

The most common cause of a clogged sump pump is natural debris buildup. As water enters the sump pit, it can carry small pieces of debris that build up over time, or the debris can get caught in the filter. If you forget to cover the pit after cleaning the sump pump and pit, debris can also collect in the pit. Corrosion on the metal discharge pipe can also clog the pump. Additionally, if your pipes freeze, it can prevent water from draining properly and cause a clog.