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There are several reasons your grass may be dying that could be in or out of your control. The most common issues include poor drainage, under/overwatering, poor soil pH, low soil nutrients, low sunlight, or too much foot traffic.

It depends. Smaller, younger trees take longer to mature, but they're more resilient, their roots don't get as damaged during transplanting, and they recover faster. Plus, they're much more affordable to plant, and it's possible to DIY the planting. 

On the other hand, mature trees produce fruit faster and provide more shade and privacy immediately. Ideally, a small or medium tree is the better choice if you can wait a few years for it to mature. But if you need immediate maturity, a larger tree is the only option.

A scattering of leaves won’t pose a problem through the winter, but a thicker layer of leaves may not decompose before the first frost and can instead weigh down your grass and harbor mold or fungi. A thick layer of leaves also cuts off light and air that grass needs to grow. That’s why we suggest removing thick leaf layers within several days if possible. If your lawn goes dormant over the winter and snow has already caught up with you, then remove the leaves in early spring before your grass-growing season starts so your lawn can thrive.

While you can leave roots in the ground, if you don’t want the shrub to regrow again over time, it’s best not to leave any roots behind. Ensure you remove as much of the shrub as possible, including the root ball and any main roots you can see, to prevent new growth. Some gardeners opt for using a chemical treatment to prevent the stump from growing back, but this can kill beneficial microorganisms living in your soil.