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The tool you use to sand plaster will depend on the size of the project. If you’re just working on a small section of your wall to get rid of an uneven spot on the surface, hand-sanding might work. However, for larger projects, a drywall sander can make a huge difference when it comes to both time and elbow grease—and an orbital sander can help for detailed areas such as around ceiling fans.

You can repair plaster ceilings yourself after the cause of the ceiling damage has been addressed. However, the repair can easily take 5 hours and can be slightly challenging for those without previous experience. If you do decide to flex your DIY muscle, have a helper to help hold the ladder and pass you the tools for safety purposes.

Both plaster and drywall are durable wall finishes, but they differ significantly in installation, cost, performance, and aesthetics.

Installation & Cost: Drywall installation is faster and more affordable, typically costing $1.50 to $3 per square foot. It uses premade sheets, making it a more accessible DIY project. Plastering is a labor-intensive craft that requires specialized skills, pushing costs to $2 to $10 per square foot. It involves applying a wet paste over a lath framework.

Durability & Performance: Plaster is generally more durable, longer-lasting, and provides superior soundproofing. It is also a better insulator, which can help reduce energy costs. Drywall is easier to remove for future renovations.

Aesthetics: Drywall provides a smooth, uniform surface ready for paint or texture. Plaster offers a high-end, naturally textured look that can hide imperfections and is often preferred for achieving a classic or historic aesthetic.

Which is better? The choice depends on your priorities. Drywall is ideal for those prioritizing a lower upfront cost, faster installation, and DIY potential. Plaster is the better option for a higher-end project where durability, soundproofing, and a unique, premium finish are more important than the initial cost.

The easiest way to tell if a wall is load bearing is to check if it’s an exterior wall or if it runs perpendicular to the joists above and below it (or parallel to beams). Exterior walls are almost always load-bearing, and walls that run under beams or parallel to them are also usually load-bearing. There are exceptions to these rules, and walls that don’t fit into these categories can still be load-bearing. If you’re unsure, hire a structural engineer to look at your home to assess whether or not the wall is structural.