How to Install Ceramic Tile Floors for Beautiful Results

If your installation is happening in a room that already has an old tile floor, you will need to chisel it out and remove the existing flooring with a tile scraper. This part of the job can get dusty, so wear eye protection and a safety mask. Establish good ventilation by opening windows, if possible. Protect adjoining rooms by placing plastic sheets down to catch airborne dust. 

If you are installing tile in a bathroom, you may also need to remove the toilet, baseboards, and vanity. This can increase the ceramic tile installation cost if you hire a professional, so you could save money by doing it yourself. 

Once your old floor is cleared away, inspect the substrate (or subfloor). This is the surface you’ll install your tile on. A subfloor for tile can be solid concrete, exterior plywood, concrete backer board, or an uncoupling membrane. 

If you use a membrane, cut it to size, adhere it to the subfloor with mortar, and waterproof the seams with waterproofing tape. Make sure you understand the difference between grout and mortar so you don’t make a mistake and use the wrong material. Regardless of what your subfloor is made of, it should be clean, level, and stable. If it’s uneven or flexes beneath weight, solve the issue now before installation to avoid broken tiles and cracked grout in the future. Waiting to take care of the issue until after it becomes a problem could increase the cost of tile installation if you need to redo it in the future.

Before adhering any tiles, create a dry-fit to map out what your final installation will look like. Strive to create a layout that maximizes the number of whole tiles, and minimizes the size of any cuts you’ll need to make to the tiles.

Pro Tip: Place awkwardly-cut tiles out of the main line of sight from the doorway, such as where a vanity will cover them.

To make your finished surface as symmetrical as possible, measure to find the center of each wall. Snap a chalk line between the center points of both sets of opposite walls to create four quadrants. The intersection of the two chalk lines will be your starting point.

Start your first row, mixing tile from different boxes to help keep the color consistent throughout the room. If you end up with small pieces (less than 2 inches wide) on either edge, shift your layout to make your edge tiles wider and mark new chalk lines in the center. You’ll want your tile measurements at opposite walls to be the same. Repeat this process for the other two walls.

Mix your mortar by following the instructions on your package. It should be roughly the consistency of peanut butter. Let it rest for about 10 minutes (or the amount of time recommended on the packaging). Using your trowel, spread an even layer of mortar over a 2-by-3-foot area along the straight edge of your starting point lines. Comb the mortar at a 45-degree angle with the notched edge of your trowel for better adhesion, pressing down hard so that the trowel makes a scraping sound. Working in small sections at a time will help prevent the mortar from drying too quickly.

Using a straightedge as a guide, gently lay your first tile on the mortar along the starting line. Consistent pressure helps ensure each tile sits at the same height as its neighbors. Place tile spacers for even joints, and continue to set each tile the same way.

As you work, use a damp sponge to wipe away any mortar that gets on your tile surface. Use a level periodically to check that your tiles are even, and use an A-square or framing square to check that they are sitting squarely to one another.

When you get to an edge where cuts need to be made, use a tile cutter for straight cuts. If you need to make a small cut (less than 1-inch wide) or a curved cut, score the tile first and snap pieces off with a handheld tile nipper. Be sure to leave a one-quarter-inch gap around the perimeter of the room for grout expansion.

Once all tiles are set, wait 24 hours before adding grout. After the wait is over, remove all tile spacers. Mix your grout and scoop a trowel full onto the floor. Starting from the edges of the room and working your way toward the center, spread and press the grout into your joints using the rubber float, held at a 45-degree angle–just like when you were spreading mortar to set the tiles.

Allow the grout to set for about 20 minutes, or until it’s firm to the touch. Next, wash the tile by wiping the surface with a damp sponge and clean water. Wipe away the grout haze, rinsing your sponge often. You may have to repeat this process several times. Don’t wipe too aggressively, or you may accidentally pull the grout out of the joints. To keep the floor in good condition, make sure you know how to clean floor tile grout.

To finish your floor tile installation, apply a silicone sealant to the one-quarter-inch expansion gaps on the perimeter. Wait three weeks (or whatever amount of time is recommended on your grout packaging) to apply a grout sealant as well. When the sealant is set and dry, you can install baseboards, molding, transition strips, vanities, and toilets. If you’re installing tile in a shower, you may also want to consider tile shower waterproofing.