How to Fix a Rotted End on a Fence Gate: A Guide for DIYers
We won’t gatekeep the steps to replacing your rot-ridden fence post
- Safety glasses
- Work gloves
- Cordless drill with screwdriver bit
- Shovel
- Digging bar (optional)
- Replacement fence post
- Gate hinges (optional)
- Gate latch (optional)
- Gravel
- Dry concrete mix
Moisture is the enemy of wood fences, often causing different parts of your fence to warp, split, or rot. In situations like these, salvaging the wood isn’t an option, so you’re better off fully replacing the post that the gate is attached to. We’ll walk you through that process below as we explain how to fix a rotted end on a fence gate.
Remove the Gate and Hardware
Put on your safety glasses and gloves. Then, use a drill to remove the gate from the hinges and set it aside. Remove any gate hardware—including latches, handles, and hinges—from the rotted fence post and set it aside. If any of the hardware is rusty or damaged, replace it when you reassemble the gate.
End posts only have holes on one side, so after you remove the gate and hardware, there shouldn’t be anything attached to the other side.
Dig Around the Post
Grab the fence post and try to wiggle it out of the ground. If it doesn’t come out easily, use a shovel to dig a hole around the base of the post. The hole should be as deep as the fence post and extend several inches (or up to a foot) around the post to account for the attached concrete footing.
Remove the Post and Footing
Photo: Anna/ Adobe StockLoosen the post and footing by rocking the post back and forth. If necessary, you can use a shovel to push away dirt and break up tree roots. Need a little extra strength? You can pry up the footing with a digging bar or break up the concrete with a sledgehammer.
When it’s loose enough, remove the fence post by pulling it up out of the ground. Concrete footings are heavy, so ask a friend to help with this step.
Set aside the rotted fence post while you install the new one.
Clear Out the Hole
Remove any remaining pieces of wood or concrete from the hole.
Add Gravel
Dump 4 to 6 inches of gravel into the empty fence post hole and pack it down with a tamper. This can prevent rot and promote drainage.
Install the New Post
Photo: photovs/istock/ Getty ImagesInsert the replacement post in the center of the hole. Your helper should hold it upright while you use a level to confirm that it’s plumb (perfectly vertical).
Add Concrete and Water
Photo: photovs/istock/ Getty ImagesPour dry concrete mix around the base of the fence post, filling it until it’s 3 inches below the top of the hole.
Next, slowly pour water into the concrete. Check the instructions on the product’s packaging to figure out how much water to add. You’ll often need one gallon of water per 50-pound bag of concrete. For a 6-foot fence, you’d need about three bags of concrete.
To prevent rainwater from pooling around the wood (and potentially rotting it), use a trowel to taper the concrete so it slopes away from the post.
Let It Dry
Let the concrete dry completely. Drying times vary by product, but it can take up to a day.
Caulk the Base
If you live in a colder climate, it’s a good idea to caulk the space where the fence post meets the concrete. On chilly days, the caulk can help prevent water from freezing and cracking the concrete footing.
Fill the Hole
Optionally, you can fill the empty part of the hole with soil or some of your leftover gravel from step five.
Stain and Seal the Wood
Photo: AleksandarNakic/ Getty ImagesStaining your wood fence post is a good way to protect it against moisture, sunlight, and other things that could cause it to rot or warp.
To do this, you’ll apply the stain with a brush or roller. When it’s dry, you can use the same technique to apply sealer for extra protection.
Assemble the Gate
After staining and sealing the new wood, you can reinstall any hardware and reattach the gate to the fence posts by the hinges. If the old parts are rusty or falling apart, now is a good time to install a new gate latch or hinges.
Mistakes to Avoid When Fixing a Fence Gate Post
There’s a lot that goes into replacing a rotted end post. From lifting old concrete out of the ground to leveling lumber to mixing new concrete, it’s easy to make a mistake (or two) in the process. To help you stay on track, here are some common wood fence mistakes to be aware of before you begin:
Buying the wrong post: Your new fence post should be similar to the old one—otherwise, the gate might not attach properly. If you aren’t sure how to find a replacement post, reach out to a gate repair pro near you.
Not planning for drainage: Without proper drainage, your new fence post could succumb to the same fate as your last one. To prevent rotting, add gravel into the hole and slope the concrete footing away from the post.
Skipping the sealer: Sealing a wood fence also helps it resist rotting. Even if you’re only installing a single post, it’s a good idea to stain and seal it as part of the process.
DIY vs. Hiring a Pro
By replacing a fence post yourself, you’ll save $50 per hour in professional labor costs. You’ll still need to pay for the materials, though—and you’ll have to invest in any tools or equipment you don’t already have. Plus, you’ll need to do some heavy lifting (literally) and dedicate a couple of days to this project. For those reasons, it’s easier to leave this job to a pro.
A fence gate can sag for a number of reasons. It often happens if the hinges are damaged or if the hinge screws are loose. Gates can also slump if the supporting fence posts start to lean or come out of place. This means that fixing a sagging gate is often as simple as tightening a few screws or upgrading the hinges.
No, fence posts aren’t always set in concrete. If you don’t want to use concrete footings for your posts, expanding foam is a popular alternative. Expanding foam and concrete each have certain pros and cons. For instance, foam is easier to install and more sustainable, but concrete is sturdier and less expensive.
Get our Angi-powered app
