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If it’s been a few weeks and you haven’t seen anything pop up, double-check your seed packet and make sure you didn’t miss any steps. Did they need cold stratification (putting seeds in the freezer and then transferring to water before planting)? Do they have an exceptionally long germination period? 

 If you’ve followed all of the directions closely, you may just have had a bad batch of seeds. (Sadly, it happens.)

First, you should figure out whether you have dormant or dead grass. Dead grass won’t come back, so you’ll have to reseed if you’re hoping for a lush lawn. However, grass can go dormant if it hasn’t received enough water or if temperatures are too cold. If it’s still decently warm outside, you can revive dormant grass by watering it. But if it’s mid-January in New England, for example, you’ll need to wait until the weather warms up again. If you want to keep grass green in winter, consider a grass like Kentucky bluegrass, which maintains its color year-round.

Yes, after the lawn is overseeded post-aeration, most of the seed germinates in the aeration holes. This leaves the soil undisturbed while lush and healthy grass will grow in the holes' place. The point of this is to create extra turf density in areas that really need it, such as a large patch of dead grass where a shed used to be.

Too much clover in your lawn can indicate several issues with your soil. Clover can thrive in soils with abnormally high pH, low-cut grass, and low nitrogen. Amending these issues can push clover out for good.

Hardy perennial clover loves the low nitrogen and compact conditions that often come with poor, infertile soils. But other factors also contribute to a clover explosion, including drought conditions, cool temperatures, under fertilization, and over-irrigation. You’ll need to evaluate all these elements when planning to kill off the clover.