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Retaining Wall Installers questions, answered by experts

Sand and gravel are two suitable options for filling behind a retaining wall. If you’re building your own retaining wall, you’ll complete this part of the process—known as backfilling—after you finish laying the blocks. Make sure not to skip it—otherwise, you could wind up with drainage issues, which can cause your retaining wall to collapse.

Failure to compact the soil during construction is the most common cause of leaning retaining walls. In addition, poor drainage can lead to excessive water pressure behind a retaining wall, pushing against it until it begins to move forward away from the soil it is holding back.

If you don’t backfill a retaining wall—either at all or adequately enough—the wall won’t drain well, and water will be able to pass through it. Poor drainage will lead to a warped wall or a buildup of hydrostatic pressure, which can eventually collapse your retaining wall. If you have particularly sloped land, consult a structural engineer to ensure your hardscaping is adding value to your home.

Each design is different, so we can’t say definitively if you’ll need a dedicated drainage system in place for a two-foot retaining wall. However, you can likely skip the drainage, as this project is typically served for walls that are 4 feet tall or more. Even with a relatively low wall, consider drainage if you are building on top of clay or poor-draining soil types or if there are buried water sources nearby, like a well used for other outdoor garden projects.

Generally speaking, a retaining wall should be between 3 and 4 feet high, depending on variables such as the wall-building material, the purpose of the retaining wall, and more. If you want your retaining wall to be taller than 4 feet, check with your local building ordinance office for the maximum allotment. You may also need a special permit for retaining walls over 4 feet tall.

The Holmen, WI homeowners’ guide to retaining wall installation services

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