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Satin paint is generally considered a better choice for woodwork—including trim, baseboards, cabinets, and doors—than flatter finishes like eggshell or matte. Its soft sheen enhances architectural details and stands up well to frequent cleaning and daily wear. Compared to eggshell and matte finishes, satin is more durable for high-touch areas because it is less porous and doesn't absorb dirt as easily. Matte finishes, in particular, are prone to scuffs and are harder to clean, making them less practical for surfaces like doors and cabinets.

Yes, it is generally a very good idea to seal your deck after pressure washing. Power washing removes not only dirt and debris but also a thin layer of wood, leaving the surface exposed and more susceptible to weathering. Sealing is almost always needed after this process. After a general cleaning, sealing isn't automatically necessary if the existing sealant is still intact. You can test the surface by placing a few drops of water on it. If the water beads up, the sealant is working. If it soaks into the wood, it's time to apply a new sealant. If it has been a few years, it's wise to remove the old sealant, wash the deck, and reseal for maximum protection.

Whether to brush or roll stain on wood depends on the project and your preference. Brushing is ideal for smaller, intricate areas and offers more control over the application, ensuring thorough coverage and penetration into the wood's grain. 

Conversely, rolling is efficient for more extensive, flat surfaces and can save time. However, it is not always the best fit for textured or uneven wood. Some projects may benefit from combining both methods, using a brush for detail work and a roller for broader areas. Ultimately, the choice between brushing and rolling depends on the specific requirements of your staining project.

Limewash and whitewash are two techniques used to give brick a light, matte finish, but they differ in composition, application, and permanence. The best choice depends on your aesthetic goals and the specific surface.

Composition

• Limewash: A natural and environmentally friendly option made from limestone, water, and sometimes pigments. It is breathable and soaks into porous surfaces like brick.

• Whitewash: Traditionally made from lime, water, chalk, and binders, but a similar look can be achieved with watered-down white paint. It is paint-based and sits on top of the surface.

Appearance and Finish

• Limewash: Provides a natural, textured appearance that allows the brick's character to show through. It offers a more traditional finish.

• Whitewash: Creates a softer, more opaque finish, often used for a rustic or shabby-chic style.

Application and Permanence

• Limewash: Is semi-permanent and can be removed, making it a good choice if you might want to change the look in the future. It requires more skill to apply and cannot be used on previously painted brick.

• Whitewash: Is a more permanent solution. It is more forgiving to apply and can be used on painted brick. However, because it sits on the surface, it can trap moisture.

Ultimately, if you want a breathable, natural, and reversible finish for unpainted brick, limewash is a great option. If you need a more permanent, opaque coating that can be applied over painted surfaces, whitewash is the better choice. Whitewashing may also be more economical, costing approximately $1.40 to $4.20 per square foot.