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If the fan doesn’t have a switch, connect the white wire from the ceiling to the white wire from the fan; connect the green wire to the ground wire; connect both black wires; and connect both blue wires. If yours has a switch, the white and green wires are connected the same way. However, connect the ceiling’s red wire to the light’s black wire and the ceiling’s black wire to the fan’s black wire. 

Ceiling fans are very often worth the investment because they improve comfort in your living space and help reduce utility bills. In the late spring and early fall—and even in the summer in some areas—homeowners with ceiling fans can often get away with open windows and fans, which can cut down on cooling bills and also reduce wear and tear on the HVAC system. Over time, ceiling fans can pay for themselves by saving you money on electric bills and air conditioner repair and maintenance.

There are several telltale signs to let you know that your ceiling fan needs servicing or replacement. For instance, if it’s wobbling, rotating too slowly, or if your ceiling fan is making noise such as squeaks, buzzes, and thumps, it’s time to have it looked at by a professional. Not only may it indicate a potential problem with the fan itself, but it could also signal a red flag that it’s improperly assembled or there’s an issue with the wiring.

Fan power is measured by CFM, or cubic feet per minute. For every 1,000 feet of square footage in your attic, you need a minimum of 700 CFM. Steeper roofs may need larger fans or about 840 CFM.  You can figure the size of attic fan you need by multiplying the square footage of your attic floor by 0.7. (multiply by 1.2 for a steep roof and 1.15 for a dark roof). That number is the CFM required for your fan to run efficiently.