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Lighting questions, answered by experts

Testing tools, such as Christmas light testers, non-contact proximity electrical testers, and multimeters, all simplify the process of testing Christmas lights. However, without one or more of those tools, testing Christmas lights the old-fashioned way only works sometimes. Without testing tools, the simplest testing method is visual inspection, which may or may not yield positive results.

Professional repairs involve diagnosing issues, replacing components, rewiring, or repositioning fixtures to restore optimal performance.

Your maintenance needs revolve around the type of foundation you choose, as well as how you furnish or decorate it. Patios require little else other than the occasional hose-down, but decks and other wooden structures will require annual power washing and sealing. You may also need to restain the wood every two to three years.

Adding a solid roof rather than building a pergola or leaving the space open will make maintenance much easier. Without a roof, you will need to spend more time sweeping, washing, and covering your furniture to protect it from UV bleaching.

Yes! As a matter of fact, there are many sensors that add motion to existing outdoor lights. These motion sensors attach to pre-existing flood lights and other outdoor lights without any fussy and potentially dangerous electrical work. Additionally, some flood lights and related fixtures ship with motion sensors built-in. 

If half of a string of Christmas lights is out, it is likely because of a single burned-out, loose, or broken bulb within that section. Long strands of lights often contain more than one circuit, so when one bulb fails, it can cause the entire circuit (or half the strand) to go dark. To fix this, inspect the unlit section and test each bulb to ensure it is tight and functioning properly. Replacing the faulty bulb or repairing a damaged shunt will typically solve the problem.

The Lorton, VA homeowners’ guide to lighting services

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