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A scattering of leaves won’t pose a problem through the winter, but a thicker layer of leaves may not decompose before the first frost and can instead weigh down your grass and harbor mold or fungi. A thick layer of leaves also cuts off light and air that grass needs to grow. That’s why we suggest removing thick leaf layers within several days if possible. If your lawn goes dormant over the winter and snow has already caught up with you, then remove the leaves in early spring before your grass-growing season starts so your lawn can thrive.

It depends. Smaller, younger trees take longer to mature, but they're more resilient, their roots don't get as damaged during transplanting, and they recover faster. Plus, they're much more affordable to plant, and it's possible to DIY the planting. 

On the other hand, mature trees produce fruit faster and provide more shade and privacy immediately. Ideally, a small or medium tree is the better choice if you can wait a few years for it to mature. But if you need immediate maturity, a larger tree is the only option.

Monkey grass isn’t too picky when it comes to light conditions: It needs sun but prefers partial shade. While it can tolerate full sun, it thrives in environments with partial shade (around four to six hours of sunlight per day). The black mondo grass variety is the most tolerant of heat from direct sunlight.

Grass is the most popular and safest option for planting over a septic drain field, but you can also plant small flowering plants and other lightweight plants that don’t have woody or deep roots. Avoid trees and bushes within 10 feet of the field, as the woody roots can crack the perforated pipes. You should also avoid planting vegetable or fruit gardens over your drain field, as a leak from the pipes could contaminate the soil and put anyone who eats the produce at risk.