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The easiest way to tell if a wall is load bearing is to check if it’s an exterior wall or if it runs perpendicular to the joists above and below it (or parallel to beams). Exterior walls are almost always load-bearing, and walls that run under beams or parallel to them are also usually load-bearing. There are exceptions to these rules, and walls that don’t fit into these categories can still be load-bearing. If you’re unsure, hire a structural engineer to look at your home to assess whether or not the wall is structural.

Their expertise in identifying potential problems early and implementing durable solutions safeguards your home’s integrity.

First, most contractors will have a structural engineer create a report and plan for your project to ensure it’s safe to cut into the load-bearing wall. The contractor will then excavate around the wall, if necessary, measure the opening—allowing for additional space to fit and level the door, and then cut the doorway out. They will likely install a steel lintel as a header over the door for support. Once the doorway is cut out, they’ll demolish the concrete using sledge hammers and masonry chisels, clean up the surrounding concrete, and seal around the door with masonry mortar. 

A freestanding brick wall that's only one brick thick can usually stand six to eight feet high. If you need a higher wall, it should be at least two bricks thick for adequate stability, and it might require a footing to support the added weight. Additionally, some areas have regulations and codes dictating how high a brick wall can be, so check with local code enforcers to ensure your proposed wall complies with any regulations.