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While blacktop is a type of asphalt, the terms should not be used interchangeably, as not all asphalt qualifies as blacktop. The primary differences are in their composition, production process, and ideal applications. Blacktop contains more stone than other types of asphalt and is heated to a higher temperature during production—300°F or more—while hot-mix asphalt is heated to between 275°F and 300°F. The ratio of bitumen (a tar-like crude oil) is a key differentiator, though sources vary: some state blacktop has less bitumen, making it less durable, while others claim it has a higher ratio. Due to these differences, asphalt is generally more durable and better for high-traffic areas like highways and streets, while blacktop is more suitable for playgrounds and residential driveways. For a driveway project, it is best to consult a professional to determine the most appropriate material.

You can pour concrete over asphalt if it’s in good condition, thick, stable, and well-compacted. Concrete is more durable than asphalt and can extend the lifetime of your driveway without having to pay frequent asphalt driveway repair costs or replace it completely. 

But this is best reserved as a temporary solution based on budget restraints, as asphalt requires more frequent repairs and assessments than concrete. Once that concrete top is poured, it’ll be harder to accurately understand what’s happening beneath that layer, which could lead to more issues.

There’s no single best asphalt grade—it all comes down to where and how it’s used. Highways and heavy-traffic roads need something tough, like polymer-modified asphalt (PMA) or Stone Matrix Asphalt (SMA). Local roads and parking lots rely on the Performance Graded (PG) system, chosen based on climate. A PG 64-28 mix, for example, handles a broad temperature range while simpler, more cost-effective mixes are typically enough for residential driveways. The best grade of asphalt depends on traffic, weather, and your budget, which is why a professional’s input is always a smart move before making a decision.

If pavers are uneven but not sunken, lift the affected bricks and check the bedding sand underneath. In many cases, simply smoothing out or adjusting the sand is enough to level them. Add or remove small amounts as needed, then press the pavers back into place and tap them with a mallet until they sit evenly with the surrounding surface.