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Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

Limewash and whitewash are two techniques used to give brick a light, matte finish, but they differ in composition, application, and permanence. The best choice depends on your aesthetic goals and the specific surface.

Composition

• Limewash: A natural and environmentally friendly option made from limestone, water, and sometimes pigments. It is breathable and soaks into porous surfaces like brick.

• Whitewash: Traditionally made from lime, water, chalk, and binders, but a similar look can be achieved with watered-down white paint. It is paint-based and sits on top of the surface.

Appearance and Finish

• Limewash: Provides a natural, textured appearance that allows the brick's character to show through. It offers a more traditional finish.

• Whitewash: Creates a softer, more opaque finish, often used for a rustic or shabby-chic style.

Application and Permanence

• Limewash: Is semi-permanent and can be removed, making it a good choice if you might want to change the look in the future. It requires more skill to apply and cannot be used on previously painted brick.

• Whitewash: Is a more permanent solution. It is more forgiving to apply and can be used on painted brick. However, because it sits on the surface, it can trap moisture.

Ultimately, if you want a breathable, natural, and reversible finish for unpainted brick, limewash is a great option. If you need a more permanent, opaque coating that can be applied over painted surfaces, whitewash is the better choice. Whitewashing may also be more economical, costing approximately $1.40 to $4.20 per square foot.

The process of painting or staining a fence typically takes between one and five days. The total duration depends on factors like the size of the fence, weather conditions, and necessary drying times. A significant portion of this time is for drying, as stain won't properly absorb into wet wood. You should wait 24 hours to stain a fence after washing it and allow 12 to 24 hours of drying time between each coat. The active work time is generally about one hour for every 10 to 20 linear feet of fencing.

You can apply stain over peeling stain, but it’s not a good idea. Your old stain will get in the way of your new stain bonding to the wood, so you’re likely going to see the same issue again shortly after application. Your best option is to sand off the old stain and clean the surface thoroughly before applying new stain.