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You can check your own septic tank, but take precautions. Locate the access lid, usually buried a few inches underground, and remove it carefully. Look for the sludge and scum levels, and if they’re high, that means pumping may be necessary. Check for odors, slow drains, or pooling water around the drain field, which could indicate issues. Never enter the tank, as toxic gases can be fatal. All of that being said, a professional inspection is safer and more thorough.

Adding a thin layer of dirt over a septic drain field is fine, especially if soil erosion has occurred. However, adding too much dirt can compact the soil, reducing the drain field’s ability to absorb and filter wastewater properly. Avoid using heavy clay soil, as it can prevent proper drainage. Instead, use a light layer of topsoil and plant grass to help with soil stability.

A gurgling toilet usually doesn’t mean that your septic tank is full. If waste can’t drain into a full septic tank, you’ll see water and sewage backing up into your fixtures, but the air that causes gurgling is a result of poor venting. You are more likely to have a clog in your vent stack or a damaged air admittance valve.

Bladder and diaphragm well pressure tanks are usually pre-charged at the factory. Even so, it’s important to check the air pressure in the tank using a tire pressure gauge on the relief valve. The instruction manual usually calls for 28 psi. Use a hand pump to add more air or release some air from the tank to reach the desired number. Check the pressure periodically to see if you need to add more air to the tank.