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Blown-in insulation works, but only for unfinished attics. Also, it isn’t the longest-lasting nor the most effective option. For better options, look into spray foam insulation or natural fiber batts. They typically have a longer lifespan, better heat resistance, and stronger sound-proof abilities. Spray foam insulation costs about $1.25 to $1.50 per square foot, but can go up to more than $4 per square foot. Fiber batt pricing varies depending on the material.

Yes, cold walls are a common indicator of poor or inadequate insulation, especially if the walls feel significantly colder than the air in the room. This suggests that heat from your furnace is escaping rather than being retained. The issue could be that the walls have no insulation, or that the existing insulation is old or has been damaged by water, moisture, or pests. Your best course of action is to hire a professional to investigate. An insulation contractor can determine if you need to add or replace insulation and can often perform the work without creating large holes in your drywall. If you suspect the problem might also be related to your heating system's performance, an HVAC technician can take a closer look.

If you’re using faced insulation with paper, face the paper toward the inside of the room during the installation process. 

A good way to remember this is that the paper should face the “warm side” as it’s the vapor barrier, meaning it should face toward where the heat will be coming from.

You don’t need to staple insulation, as your drywall and studs will hold it into place. But if you already have a staple gun and staples lying around, it can help keep the product in place and avoid any shifting. But, most experts agree it’s an unnecessary step.

If you’re adding a vapor barrier, you will need to staple that in place.