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Natural fiber batts and spray foam insulation both work great for soundproofing. Newer materials, such as hemp batts, are more expensive but more effective for insulation and sound blocking. They are also more sustainable. There is also a professional system called Blow-In Blanket Insulation (BIBS) that is soundproof and moisture-resistant. However, BIBS must be installed professionally and can be a costly investment.

The life span of fiberglass insulation can be as long as 80 to 100 years, but because of changing building codes, it’s best to get your insulation checked every 10 to 15 years. Signs of degrading fiberglass insulation include bits of batts on the floor or batts detached from frames. Having optimal, healthy insulation in your home will improve its energy efficiency, lowering your monthly bills.

On average, insulating an attic costs about $2,500, with a typical range of $1,500 to $3,500. The final price often depends on the attic's size, with costs generally falling between $1 to $3 per square foot. For example, insulating a 1,800-square-foot attic would likely cost between $1,800 and $5,400.

If the project involves removing old insulation, this can add an average of $900 to the total cost, bringing a full removal and reinsulation project to around $3,000.

Several factors influence the overall cost:

• Insulation Type: Prices per square foot vary significantly by material.

• Reflective: $0.50–$1.50

• Blown-in: $1–$4

• Batt: $2–$4

• Loose-fill: $2–$5

• Spray foam: $2–$5

• Structural insulated panels (SIPs): $4–$7

• Project Complexity: Factors like sealing air leaks, poor attic accessibility, and required inspections can add to the cost.

• Removal Issues: The discovery of mold, asbestos, or pests during the removal of old insulation can substantially increase the price.

If you plan on heating your garage, you must install a vapor barrier when drywalling the garage. A vapor barrier protects your garage from frost and mold that can occur through condensation. If your garage is unheated, you don't need to install a vapor barrier. The only exception is if you regularly crank the heat in your car before getting in it. In this case, you may still want to install a vapor barrier, as your car can heat your garage.