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Insulating windows without plastic is usually the better method. Outside of simply replacing your windows, you could buy cellular shades, which trap air between the window and the home, add a window film that blocks UV rays and traps heat, or cover your windows with a low-emissivity coating called “low-E.”

You do not always need to remove old insulation before adding new. If the existing insulation is in good condition—not wet, physically damaged, moldy, or infested with pests—you can add new insulation directly on top of it for a compounding effect. You can also mix different types, such as adding blown-in insulation around existing fiberglass batts.

However, removal is recommended if the old insulation is compromised by water damage or pests. You should also remove it if you plan to install a different type of insulation, like switching from roll or batt insulation to spray foam. If the existing insulation is very old or damaged, you will likely get more benefit from removing it and starting fresh.

Vapor barriers in attics are a bit outdated and most areas no longer recommend them for attic spaces. For vented attics, the best method is usually to install drywall and cover it with latex paint before attaching insulation fiberglass, cellulose, or foam insulation. When renovating an attic to use as a living space, a contractor can guide you on the best way to cover insulation.

Three signs that you need crawl space insulation are drafts, high energy bills, and mold. Drafts can start in crawl spaces and cause hot or cold air to spread to the rest of your home through holes in the floors and walls. And even if your entire home is well-insulated, you can still feel an unchecked draft from your crawl space and in your utility bill. Uninsulated crawl spaces can let in air and moisture, and because they’re built directly on the ground and difficult to dry out, they are hotspots for mold and mildew.