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Driveway Sealcoating questions, answered by experts

Sealant comes in 5-gallon buckets that can cover up to 400 square feet. Measure your driveway to get the exact square footage, and remember to factor in enough sealant for two coats.

Ideally, you should seal your driveway when there won’t be rain for several days, but at a minimum, there can’t be rain for at least 24 hours. If it rains shortly after you seal your driveway, the water can wash away the sealer and render your work useless. You’ll have to wait for your driveway to dry out and try applying again. Note that some sealers—like oil-based sealers or specialty fast-drying sealers—may cure faster. Ask your contractor for information on timing before the install, and if there’s rain in the forecast, postpone the job.

No. You cannot use asphalt products on concrete driveways. To seal a concrete driveway, use acrylic, epoxy, polyurethane, silane, siloxane, and silicate sealers or deep penetration sealers made specifically for concrete. Meanwhile, asphalt sealers contain refined coal tar (asphalt emulsion), water, sand, clay, polymers, and additives and are incompatible with concrete’s surface texture and higher density.

You shouldn’t directly paint over an oil stain on your asphalt driveway. While painting over might visually conceal the stain, the oil will continue to damage the driveway. Once you’ve noticed the oil stain, it’s important to thoroughly remove it within the next few months since oil stains only take six months before they begin to damage the structure of your asphalt driveway.

You should contact your driveway installer before winterizing a newly installed driveway. Winterizing it before the asphalt or concrete has fully cured can damage the driveway. But in many cases, you don't need to winterize a newly installed driveway anyway since it's likely freshly sealed and won't have much damage yet. 

The Gregory, SD homeowners’ guide to driveway sealcoating

From average costs to expert advice, get all the answers you need to get your job done.