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Yes, but it's best to kill off the grass with solarization and remove the dead plant matter before laying down the pavers. This helps limit the chance of your pavers shifting as the dead plant matter decomposes.

Paving is a part of hardscaping, so all paving is hardscaping, but not all hardscaping is paving. Paving involves laying down concrete or asphalt, while hardscaping can also include the use of paving stones, bricks, gravel, wood, and more. Hardscape features that involve paving are considered permanent and will increase your property taxes, while some other hardscaping features—like those involving bricks, gravel, and paving stones—will not affect property taxes. Paving also typically requires a permit, while hardscaping features considered temporary will not.

To adhere pavers to concrete, you can use either mortar or a concrete-specific adhesive. For border pavers, a polyurethane-based adhesive is a good choice as it expands and contracts with temperature changes, keeping them firmly in place. For the non-border pavers, polymeric sand is used between the joints to prevent shifting. In most cases, it is also recommended to lay a permeable sand layer below the pavers to ensure proper stability and drainage. Before starting, always take the proper preparatory steps for a professional result.

There’s no single best asphalt grade—it all comes down to where and how it’s used. Highways and heavy-traffic roads need something tough, like polymer-modified asphalt (PMA) or Stone Matrix Asphalt (SMA). Local roads and parking lots rely on the Performance Graded (PG) system, chosen based on climate. A PG 64-28 mix, for example, handles a broad temperature range while simpler, more cost-effective mixes are typically enough for residential driveways. The best grade of asphalt depends on traffic, weather, and your budget, which is why a professional’s input is always a smart move before making a decision.