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Professional installers often include a deep layer of crushed gravel under permeable pavers to allow more runoff to soak through into the soil below. Many installations will include multiple layers of gravel, with coarser aggregate at the base and finer aggregate that sits on top of that bottom layer. Above the gravel, you’ll often find coarse sand that helps reduce paver shifting over time. Some permeable paver designs include a water collection system set into the gravel layer to route runoff to a safe area for disposal.

Your driveway contractor will probably recommend that you avoid driving on your new millings driveway for up to a week. Keeping pressure off the freshy applied millings will help the driveway to bind together. While the sun is helpful for binding millings, hotter weather can actually make the curing process take longer.

You can pour concrete over asphalt if it’s in good condition, thick, stable, and well-compacted. Concrete is more durable than asphalt and can extend the lifetime of your driveway without having to pay frequent asphalt driveway repair costs or replace it completely. 

But this is best reserved as a temporary solution based on budget restraints, as asphalt requires more frequent repairs and assessments than concrete. Once that concrete top is poured, it’ll be harder to accurately understand what’s happening beneath that layer, which could lead to more issues.

You should place a layer of thick landscaping fabric directly over the concrete slab and then a thin layer of leveling sand over that to protect the pavers from moisture. For border pavers, you should plan on locking them in place with polyurethane adhesive. This will prevent them from shifting under foot traffic.